Pinal & Maricopa County, Arizona
Appliance Repair Services
Same-day repairs, first-class service, affordable price. 12 appliances, one flat-rate price quoted before anyone starts work.
- Same-day service
- Flat-rate pricing
- No hidden fees
- 17+ years in Arizona
What's wrong with your appliance?
Pick the appliance, then the symptom. You get what usually causes it, one safe check to try first, and whether it can wait.
Need help now?(480) 791-8858
Step 2: pick the symptom 4 common refrigerator faults
Refrigerator: Not cooling, or cooling unevenly
- Condenser coils packed with dust, so it can't get rid of heat
- Condenser fan motor stopped
- Evaporator fan failed, so cold air never reaches the fresh-food side
- Compressor start relay failed. You hear a click, then nothing
Pull it out and listen at the back: the condenser fan should be spinning. Vacuum the coils and give it 24 hours before you decide anything.
General guidance from the faults our technicians see most. The actual cause is confirmed on site before you pay for anything.
Refrigerator: Leaking water underneath
- Defrost drain blocked with ice or debris
- Drain pan cracked or knocked out of place
- Supply line to the ice maker or dispenser weeping at a fitting
- Water filter not seated, or its housing cracked
Reseat the water filter, then look behind the unit for a drip on the supply line. Towel it up now. Water under a fridge ruins flooring without you noticing.
General guidance from the faults our technicians see most. The actual cause is confirmed on site before you pay for anything.
Refrigerator: The ice maker has stopped producing
- Screen in the water fill valve scaled up. Arizona water does this
- Supply line kinked behind the fridge, or frozen
- Ice maker switched off, or the shutoff arm is up
- Freezer too warm to make ice. It needs to be near 0F
Make sure the shutoff arm is down or the switch is on, and that the freezer reads close to 0F. Then check the line behind the fridge for a kink.
General guidance from the faults our technicians see most. The actual cause is confirmed on site before you pay for anything.
Refrigerator: Running constantly and never cycling off
- Dirty condenser coils
- Door gasket letting warm air in
- Defrost system failure frosting over the evaporator
- A garage at 110F, where it may never reach its setting
Close a dollar bill in the door and pull. No drag means the seal is gone. If it lives in the garage in summer, that alone can explain it.
General guidance from the faults our technicians see most. The actual cause is confirmed on site before you pay for anything.
Step 2: pick the symptom 4 common freezer faults
Freezer: Not holding temperature
- Defrost heater or defrost thermostat failed, so the coil is iced over
- Evaporator fan motor stopped
- Door seal leaking
- Condenser coils clogged with dust
Do the dollar-bill test on the door seal and vacuum the coils. Move anything valuable to another freezer while you wait.
General guidance from the faults our technicians see most. The actual cause is confirmed on site before you pay for anything.
Freezer: Heavy frost or ice buildup
- Defrost heater burned out
- Bimetal defrost thermostat failed
- Defrost timer or control board not starting the cycle
- Door not closing all the way
Make sure the door closes on its own and seals. Frost on the back panel instead of on the food is the defrost system, and that's not a DIY part.
General guidance from the faults our technicians see most. The actual cause is confirmed on site before you pay for anything.
Freezer: Running constantly
- Condenser coils clogged
- Worn door gasket
- Defrost failure starving the coil of airflow
- Garage heat above what it's rated for
Vacuum the coils and check the gasket. A freezer in an Arizona garage in July can run nonstop and still be doing nothing wrong.
General guidance from the faults our technicians see most. The actual cause is confirmed on site before you pay for anything.
Freezer: A door seal that no longer closes tight
- Gasket torn or hardened with age
- Door sagging on its hinges
- Overloaded door shelves pulling it out of line
- Unit not level, so the door won't swing shut
Raise the front leveling legs slightly so the door swings closed by itself, then redo the dollar-bill test. A new gasket is a cheap part.
General guidance from the faults our technicians see most. The actual cause is confirmed on site before you pay for anything.
Step 2: pick the symptom 4 common washing machine faults
Washer: Not draining at the end of the cycle
- Drain pump blocked by a sock, an underwire or coins
- Drain hose kinked behind the machine
- Drain pump motor failed
- Lid switch or door lock not registering, so it won't pump out
Make sure the drain hose isn't kinked. Most front-loaders have a small filter door at the bottom front. Put down towels and a shallow pan before you open it.
General guidance from the faults our technicians see most. The actual cause is confirmed on site before you pay for anything.
Washer: Not spinning, leaving clothes soaked
- Load bunched to one side, so it refuses to spin
- Lid switch or door lock failed
- Worn drive belt or motor coupler
- Water not draining. It won't spin a full tub
Spread the load out and run a drain-and-spin cycle on its own. If it drains but still won't spin, it's a part, not the load.
General guidance from the faults our technicians see most. The actual cause is confirmed on site before you pay for anything.
Washer: Leaking onto the floor
- Torn door boot seal on a front-loader
- Loose or cracked fill hose at the back
- Drain pump seal leaking
- Too much or non-HE detergent oversudsing
Shut off the two supply valves behind it until it's fixed. Check the fill hoses at the valves and wipe out the fold of the door boot (the rubber seal around the door), where tears hide.
General guidance from the faults our technicians see most. The actual cause is confirmed on site before you pay for anything.
Washer: Not filling, or filling slowly
- Screens where the water comes in clogged with scale. Common with Arizona water
- Water fill valve failed
- Supply valves only partly open
- Fill hose kinked
Turn off the water, unscrew the hoses at the back and clean the small screens where the hoses connect. Arizona scale clogs them faster than most places.
General guidance from the faults our technicians see most. The actual cause is confirmed on site before you pay for anything.
Step 2: pick the symptom 4 common dryer faults
Dryer: Tumbling but not heating
- Thermal fuse blown, almost always because the vent is restricted
- Heating element open on an electric dryer
- Igniter or gas valve coils on a gas dryer
- One leg of the 240V breaker tripped on an electric dryer
Check both halves of the dryer breaker, then go outside with it running. The vent should blow hard. If it barely breathes, clean the vent before replacing anything.
General guidance from the faults our technicians see most. The actual cause is confirmed on site before you pay for anything.
Dryer: Taking two or three cycles to dry a load
- Vent duct clogged with lint or crushed behind the dryer
- Lint screen coated with dryer-sheet film
- Outside vent flap stuck shut
- Heating element or cycling thermostat getting weak
Pull the duct off the back and run a load without it. If it dries, the vent is your problem. A clogged vent is a fire risk, so clean it before the next load.
General guidance from the faults our technicians see most. The actual cause is confirmed on site before you pay for anything.
Dryer: Not tumbling at all
- Drive belt broken
- Door switch failed
- Idler pulley or drum rollers seized
- Motor failed, or a thermal fuse that also cuts the motor
Unplug it and turn the drum by hand. If it spins freely with no resistance at all, the belt has broken.
General guidance from the faults our technicians see most. The actual cause is confirmed on site before you pay for anything.
Dryer: Shutting off partway through
- Restricted vent tripping the thermal cutoff
- Motor overheating and resetting
- Dirty moisture sensor ending auto-dry early
Wipe the two metal sensor bars inside the drum with rubbing alcohol. Film from dryer sheets fools them. Then check the vent as above.
General guidance from the faults our technicians see most. The actual cause is confirmed on site before you pay for anything.
Step 2: pick the symptom 4 common dishwasher faults
Dishwasher: Standing water left in the bottom
- Filter under the lower spray arm clogged
- Drain hose kinked, or the air gap blocked
- Garbage disposal full, or its knockout plug never removed
- Drain pump failed
Twist out and rinse the filter under the lower spray arm, then run the disposal. If the disposal is new, the knockout plug may still be in it.
General guidance from the faults our technicians see most. The actual cause is confirmed on site before you pay for anything.
Dishwasher: Dishes coming out dirty or gritty
- Filter clogged
- Spray arm holes blocked with scale
- No rinse aid. Arizona water leaves a film without it
- Wash motor weak or low water fill
Pull the spray arms and clear each hole with a toothpick, clean the filter, and keep the rinse aid topped up. That fixes most gritty loads here.
General guidance from the faults our technicians see most. The actual cause is confirmed on site before you pay for anything.
Dishwasher: Leaking from the door
- Door gasket worn or pinched
- Hand dish soap used instead of dishwasher detergent
- Unit not level, so water runs to the door
- Cracked spray arm spraying straight at the door
Never put hand dish soap in it. The suds push out the door. Check the gasket for a tear and make sure the unit sits level.
General guidance from the faults our technicians see most. The actual cause is confirmed on site before you pay for anything.
Dishwasher: Not starting or not filling
- Door latch switch not closing the circuit
- Water fill valve failed or scaled up
- Supply valve under the sink turned off
- Child lock on, or a control board fault
Make sure the control lock is off and the valve under the sink is all the way open. After that it's the latch switch or the fill valve.
General guidance from the faults our technicians see most. The actual cause is confirmed on site before you pay for anything.
Step 2: pick the symptom 4 common oven faults
Oven: Not heating at all
- Bake element burned out. Look for a blister or a break
- Weak gas igniter: it glows but never opens the valve
- Thermal fuse blown
- Relay on the control board failed
Look at the bake element on the oven floor for a blister or break. On gas, if the igniter glows for over 90 seconds with no flame, the igniter is weak.
General guidance from the faults our technicians see most. The actual cause is confirmed on site before you pay for anything.
Oven: Baking unevenly or burning on one side
- Temperature sensor drifting and reading wrong
- One element failed, so it bakes from the broiler only
- Convection fan motor stopped
- Foil on the floor or a rack blocking airflow
Take any foil off the oven floor, then put an oven thermometer on the middle rack at 350F for 20 minutes and compare.
General guidance from the faults our technicians see most. The actual cause is confirmed on site before you pay for anything.
Oven: Running hotter or cooler than the setting
- Temperature sensor failed
- Temperature adjustment setting drifted
- Door seal letting heat out
Check it with an oven thermometer. Most ovens let you adjust the setting by up to 35 degrees in the menu. Try that before replacing anything.
General guidance from the faults our technicians see most. The actual cause is confirmed on site before you pay for anything.
Oven: A door that no longer seals
- Door gasket torn or flattened
- Hinges worn or bent
- Door knocked out of alignment
Look for a gap or a torn gasket with the oven off and cool. Don't lean on an open oven door. That's how most hinges bend.
General guidance from the faults our technicians see most. The actual cause is confirmed on site before you pay for anything.
Step 2: pick the symptom 4 common stove faults
Stove: A burner that will not light
- Igniter port clogged with food
- Burner cap not seated flat
- Igniter wet after cleaning
- Spark module failed
Seat the cap flat, let it dry fully, and clear the port with a pin. If you smell gas at any point, stop, turn it off, and call the gas utility first.
General guidance from the faults our technicians see most. The actual cause is confirmed on site before you pay for anything.
Stove: An element that stays cold
- Coil element burned out
- Element receptacle burned
- Infinite switch behind the knob failed
- Limiter on a glass-top radiant element
On a coil top, swap it with a same-size element that works. If the swapped one heats, you need an element, not a switch.
General guidance from the faults our technicians see most. The actual cause is confirmed on site before you pay for anything.
Stove: A weak or uneven flame
- Burner ports clogged
- Cap sitting crooked
- Regulator problem
- Wrong orifice for the gas type after a conversion
Clean the ports and reseat the cap. A yellow flame or a gas smell means stop and call the gas utility. Don't keep using it.
General guidance from the faults our technicians see most. The actual cause is confirmed on site before you pay for anything.
Stove: Clicking that will not stop
- Moisture in the igniter or switch after a spill
- Spark switch shorted
- Cap off-center so the flame is never sensed
Wipe it dry and leave it off for 24 hours. If it still clicks once it's dry, it's the switch.
General guidance from the faults our technicians see most. The actual cause is confirmed on site before you pay for anything.
Step 2: pick the symptom 4 common microwave faults
Microwave: Running but not heating
- Magnetron failed
- High-voltage diode failed
- High-voltage capacitor failed
- A door interlock switch only partly working
Don't open the case. The high-voltage capacitor holds a dangerous charge even unplugged. This one isn't a home repair.
General guidance from the faults our technicians see most. The actual cause is confirmed on site before you pay for anything.
Microwave: A turntable that will not turn
- Plate not seated on the coupler
- Roller ring dirty or cracked
- Coupler cracked
- Turntable motor failed
Lift the plate, clean the roller ring and the track, and seat the plate back on the coupler until it drops into place.
General guidance from the faults our technicians see most. The actual cause is confirmed on site before you pay for anything.
Microwave: Shutting off as soon as the door closes
- Door interlock switch failed
- Blown fuse, usually caused by a failing switch
- Thermal cutoff tripped
Stop using it. The door interlocks are the safety switches that keep the microwaves inside, and they're not something to work around.
General guidance from the faults our technicians see most. The actual cause is confirmed on site before you pay for anything.
Microwave: Sparking or arcing inside
- Metal inside, like a twist tie, foil or a plate with metallic trim
- Waveguide cover soaked with grease or burned
- Chipped paint exposing metal in the cavity
Take out anything metal and wipe splatter off the small panel on the inside wall. If that panel is scorched, stop using it until it's replaced.
General guidance from the faults our technicians see most. The actual cause is confirmed on site before you pay for anything.
Step 2: pick the symptom 4 common ice maker faults
Ice Maker: Not producing ice
- Water filter overdue and restricting flow
- Water fill valve scaled up
- Ice maker module failed
- Freezer too warm to make ice
Replace the water filter if it's past due. It's the cheapest fix and the most common one here. Make sure the freezer is near 0F.
General guidance from the faults our technicians see most. The actual cause is confirmed on site before you pay for anything.
Ice Maker: Small, hollow or cloudy cubes
- Clogged filter cutting water pressure
- Water fill valve partly blocked with scale
- Minerals in hard water clouding the ice
New filter first. Small hollow cubes usually mean the mold isn't filling, and low water flow is the reason nine times out of ten.
General guidance from the faults our technicians see most. The actual cause is confirmed on site before you pay for anything.
Ice Maker: Freezing into one solid block
- Ice sitting unused so the cubes fuse
- Freezer temperature swinging through defrost cycles
- Water fill valve dripping into the bin
Empty the bin, break up the block, and use the dispenser at least weekly. If it refreezes solid within days, the valve is dripping.
General guidance from the faults our technicians see most. The actual cause is confirmed on site before you pay for anything.
Ice Maker: Leaking or overfilling
- Water fill valve not shutting all the way, often from scale
- Ice maker not level
- Fill tube frozen, so water spills instead
Make sure the freezer is level front to back. A valve that won't close all the way needs replacing before it floods the freezer.
General guidance from the faults our technicians see most. The actual cause is confirmed on site before you pay for anything.
Step 2: pick the symptom 4 common garbage disposal faults
Garbage Disposal: Humming without turning
- Something wedged between the plate and the grind ring
- Flywheel seized from buildup
- Motor seized
Switch it off at the wall. Put a quarter-inch hex key in the socket underneath and work it back and forth, then press the red reset button. Never put a hand inside.
General guidance from the faults our technicians see most. The actual cause is confirmed on site before you pay for anything.
Garbage Disposal: Leaking under the sink
- Sink flange putty failed. Leak at the top
- Dishwasher hose clamp loose. Leak at the side
- Drain pipe gasket. Leak where the drain pipe connects
- Cracked housing. Leak from the bottom, and that means replacement
Put a few drops of food coloring in the sink with a dry towel underneath. Where the color shows up tells you which of those four it is.
General guidance from the faults our technicians see most. The actual cause is confirmed on site before you pay for anything.
Garbage Disposal: Jammed and will not reset
- Jam not fully cleared
- Motor overheating and tripping its overload
- Motor failed
Clear it with the hex key, wait 15 minutes for the overload to cool, then press reset. If it won't hold after that, the motor is going.
General guidance from the faults our technicians see most. The actual cause is confirmed on site before you pay for anything.
Garbage Disposal: No response when switched on
- Reset button tripped
- Breaker or GFCI outlet tripped
- Wall switch or wiring
- Motor dead
Press the red reset button on the bottom, then check the breaker and any GFCI outlet under the sink.
General guidance from the faults our technicians see most. The actual cause is confirmed on site before you pay for anything.
Step 2: pick the symptom 4 common trash compactor faults
Trash Compactor: Not compacting
- Drive belt or chain broken
- Drawer safety switch not closing
- Directional switch failed
- Motor failed
Make sure the drawer is fully closed and latched and the key switch is on. Those two stop more compactors than any failed part.
General guidance from the faults our technicians see most. The actual cause is confirmed on site before you pay for anything.
Trash Compactor: A ram stuck partway
- A can or bottle wedged beside the ram
- Power screws or chain binding
- Directional switch failed
Unplug it and look down both sides of the ram for something jammed sideways.
General guidance from the faults our technicians see most. The actual cause is confirmed on site before you pay for anything.
Trash Compactor: A drawer or latch that will not close
- Bag overfilled
- Drawer rollers or track bent
- Latch worn
Take some out of the bag and check the track for anything caught in it before blaming the latch.
General guidance from the faults our technicians see most. The actual cause is confirmed on site before you pay for anything.
Trash Compactor: Odor from a failed seal
- Charcoal filter used up
- Bag leaking into the drawer
- Drawer seal worn
Replace the charcoal filter and clean the drawer. If it still smells a week later, the seal is next.
General guidance from the faults our technicians see most. The actual cause is confirmed on site before you pay for anything.
Step 2: pick the symptom 4 common wine cooler faults
Wine Cooler: Not holding temperature
- Front grille or condenser clogged, so it can't get rid of heat
- Fan motor stopped
- Thermostat or control board failed
- Thermoelectric module past its limit in a hot room
Clear the bottom grille, then leave a thermometer in a glass of water on a middle shelf overnight. The display is often wrong.
General guidance from the faults our technicians see most. The actual cause is confirmed on site before you pay for anything.
Wine Cooler: One zone warm while the other stays cold
- Fan for that zone failed
- Zone sensor failed
- Damper stuck
- Bottles blocking the vents inside
Move bottles away from the vents at the back of the warm zone and give it a day. If it stays warm, it's the fan or the sensor.
General guidance from the faults our technicians see most. The actual cause is confirmed on site before you pay for anything.
Wine Cooler: Running constantly, or cycling on and off
- Condenser clogged with dust
- Glass door out of line and not sealing
- Room too hot for the unit
- Start relay failing, so the compressor clicks on and off every few minutes
Do the dollar-bill test around the glass door. A door that's out of line can't hold the steady temperature you bought the unit for.
General guidance from the faults our technicians see most. The actual cause is confirmed on site before you pay for anything.
Wine Cooler: Frost or ice building up on the back wall
- Door seal letting humid air in
- Defrost drain hole blocked
- Door opened often in a warm room
Check the seal, then clear the small drain hole at the back wall with a pipe cleaner.
General guidance from the faults our technicians see most. The actual cause is confirmed on site before you pay for anything.
What we repair
Residential appliances. Each page has what usually fails on that machine here, and the check worth doing before you pay anyone to come out.
- Kitchen Flat-rate
Refrigerator Repair
Most no-cool calls aren't a dead compressor.
- Not cooling, or cooling unevenly
- Leaking water underneath
- The ice maker has stopped producing
- Kitchen Flat-rate
Freezer Repair
Frost building up in a freezer is almost always the defrost system, usually the heater or the bimetal thermostat (a small heat switch clipped to the cooling coils).
- Not holding temperature
- Heavy frost or ice buildup
- Running constantly
- Laundry Flat-rate
Washer Repair
A washer that won't drain is a drain pump nine times out of ten, and what's in the pump is usually a sock, an underwire, or a handful of change.
- Not draining at the end of the cycle
- Not spinning, leaving clothes soaked
- Leaking onto the floor
- Laundry Flat-rate
Dryer Repair
Tumbling but not heating is the thermal fuse or the heating element, and a thermal fuse almost never blows without a reason.
- Tumbling but not heating
- Taking two or three cycles to dry a load
- Not tumbling at all
- Kitchen Flat-rate
Dishwasher Repair
Gritty dishes are usually the filter or the spray arm, not the pump.
- Standing water left in the bottom
- Dishes coming out dirty or gritty
- Leaking from the door
- Kitchen Flat-rate
Oven Repair
No heat on an electric oven is the bake element most of the time, and you can usually see the damage: a blister or a break in the coil.
- Not heating at all
- Baking unevenly or burning on one side
- Running hotter or cooler than the setting
- Kitchen Flat-rate
Stove Repair
A gas burner that clicks and won't light is nearly always a clogged igniter port or a burner cap sitting slightly off.
- A burner that will not light
- An element that stays cold
- A weak or uneven flame
- Kitchen Flat-rate
Microwave Repair
Running but not heating is the magnetron (what makes the heat) or the high voltage diode.
- Running but not heating
- A turntable that will not turn
- Shutting off as soon as the door closes
- Kitchen Flat-rate
Ice Maker Repair
Ice makers take the worst of Arizona water.
- Not producing ice
- Small, hollow or cloudy cubes
- Freezing into one solid block
- Kitchen Flat-rate
Garbage Disposal Repair
A disposal that hums is jammed, not dead.
- Humming without turning
- Leaking under the sink
- Jammed and will not reset
- Specialty Flat-rate
Trash Compactor Repair
Compactors are simple, and the failures are mechanical: the drive belt, the chain, or the directional switch.
- Not compacting
- A ram stuck partway
- A drawer or latch that will not close
- Specialty Flat-rate
Wine Cooler Repair
A warm wine cooler is usually an airflow problem before it's a cooling problem.
- Not holding temperature
- One zone warm while the other stays cold
- Running constantly, or cycling on and off
How we work
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Flat-rate pricing
You only pay the quoted flat-rate price, no matter how long the repair takes.
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No surprises
Before our technicians start any work, they explain exactly what they are going to do. You will never encounter surprise fees.
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No hidden charges
What we quote is the final price. No additional or hidden charges that you were not anticipating.
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Reasonable rates
Not only do we strive to provide fast and reliable service, we do it at a fair, competitive price.
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Prompt service
Our technicians are efficient. We quickly diagnose your appliance's problem.
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Convenient appointments
Our technicians are available on your schedule. Call ahead to book a time that works for you.
Common questions
Tap a question to see the answer.
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How much do appliance repair technicians charge?
Most shops charge $50 to $100 to come out and find the problem, then quote the repair on top. A normal job lands somewhere between $150 and $600 once parts and labor are in. We work flat rate, so you get the price before anything comes apart, and it doesn't creep up if the job takes longer than we thought.
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Is it cheaper to repair or replace an appliance?
It comes down to age and what the fix costs. Refrigerators go 9 to 13 years, washers 10 to 14, dryers 10 to 13, dishwashers about 9. A young machine with one dead part is worth fixing nearly every time. An old one facing a big repair usually isn't, and we'll tell you so even when it costs us the job.
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What is the 50/50 rule for appliances?
It's a quick way to decide. If the appliance is more than halfway through its expected life AND the repair runs more than half the price of a new one, replace it. If only one of those is true, fix it. It's a rule of thumb, not gospel. A cheap part on an old machine can still be money well spent.
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Which refrigerator brand do repair technicians recommend?
The ones we can get parts for. Whirlpool, GE, Maytag, KitchenAid and Bosch are easy to work on, and the parts sit on a shelf. Samsung and LG build a good-looking refrigerator, but a lot of their parts are brand-only, and you can be waiting a week or more. If getting back up and running fast matters to you, that's worth more than the feature list on the door.
Something broken?
Call and we'll get you on the schedule, give you a flat rate up front, and fix it right the first time.
Call (480) 791-8858Serving Pinal and Maricopa County, Arizona for over 17 years.
Request service
Tell us what's going on and we'll call you back. For today's schedule, calling is fastest.