Serving Pinal & Maricopa County

Appliance repair technician kneeling at an open refrigerator while the homeowner looks on in a bright Arizona kitchen

17+ years in Arizona · 4.86★ from 804 reviews

Arizona's Most Trusted Appliance Repair

Same-day repairs, first-class service, affordable price. Flat-rate pricing quoted before any work starts, across Pinal County and the East Valley.

  • Same-day service
  • Flat-rate pricing
  • No hidden fees
4.86★ 804 customer reviews
17+ years Family-owned in Arizona
Flat-rate Quoted before we start
Same-day When available
Quick service finder

Find your appliance service in Arizona

Free troubleshooter

What's wrong with your appliance?

Pick the appliance, then the symptom. You get what usually causes it, one safe check to try first, and whether it can wait.

Need help now?(480) 791-8858

Step 2: pick the symptom 4 common refrigerator faults

What our techs usually find Worth a visit

Refrigerator: Not cooling, or cooling unevenly

  • Condenser coils packed with dust, so it can't get rid of heat
  • Condenser fan motor stopped
  • Evaporator fan failed, so cold air never reaches the fresh-food side
  • Compressor start relay failed. You hear a click, then nothing
Check this first

Pull it out and listen at the back: the condenser fan should be spinning. Vacuum the coils and give it 24 hours before you decide anything.

General guidance from the faults our technicians see most. The actual cause is confirmed on site before you pay for anything.

What our techs usually find Worth a visit

Refrigerator: Leaking water underneath

  • Defrost drain blocked with ice or debris
  • Drain pan cracked or knocked out of place
  • Supply line to the ice maker or dispenser weeping at a fitting
  • Water filter not seated, or its housing cracked
Check this first

Reseat the water filter, then look behind the unit for a drip on the supply line. Towel it up now. Water under a fridge ruins flooring without you noticing.

General guidance from the faults our technicians see most. The actual cause is confirmed on site before you pay for anything.

What our techs usually find Try this yourself first

Refrigerator: The ice maker has stopped producing

  • Screen in the water fill valve scaled up. Arizona water does this
  • Supply line kinked behind the fridge, or frozen
  • Ice maker switched off, or the shutoff arm is up
  • Freezer too warm to make ice. It needs to be near 0F
Check this first

Make sure the shutoff arm is down or the switch is on, and that the freezer reads close to 0F. Then check the line behind the fridge for a kink.

General guidance from the faults our technicians see most. The actual cause is confirmed on site before you pay for anything.

What our techs usually find Worth a visit

Refrigerator: Running constantly and never cycling off

  • Dirty condenser coils
  • Door gasket letting warm air in
  • Defrost system failure frosting over the evaporator
  • A garage at 110F, where it may never reach its setting
Check this first

Close a dollar bill in the door and pull. No drag means the seal is gone. If it lives in the garage in summer, that alone can explain it.

General guidance from the faults our technicians see most. The actual cause is confirmed on site before you pay for anything.

Step 2: pick the symptom 4 common freezer faults

What our techs usually find Worth a visit

Freezer: Not holding temperature

  • Defrost heater or defrost thermostat failed, so the coil is iced over
  • Evaporator fan motor stopped
  • Door seal leaking
  • Condenser coils clogged with dust
Check this first

Do the dollar-bill test on the door seal and vacuum the coils. Move anything valuable to another freezer while you wait.

General guidance from the faults our technicians see most. The actual cause is confirmed on site before you pay for anything.

What our techs usually find Worth a visit

Freezer: Heavy frost or ice buildup

  • Defrost heater burned out
  • Bimetal defrost thermostat failed
  • Defrost timer or control board not starting the cycle
  • Door not closing all the way
Check this first

Make sure the door closes on its own and seals. Frost on the back panel instead of on the food is the defrost system, and that's not a DIY part.

General guidance from the faults our technicians see most. The actual cause is confirmed on site before you pay for anything.

What our techs usually find Worth a visit

Freezer: Running constantly

  • Condenser coils clogged
  • Worn door gasket
  • Defrost failure starving the coil of airflow
  • Garage heat above what it's rated for
Check this first

Vacuum the coils and check the gasket. A freezer in an Arizona garage in July can run nonstop and still be doing nothing wrong.

General guidance from the faults our technicians see most. The actual cause is confirmed on site before you pay for anything.

What our techs usually find Try this yourself first

Freezer: A door seal that no longer closes tight

  • Gasket torn or hardened with age
  • Door sagging on its hinges
  • Overloaded door shelves pulling it out of line
  • Unit not level, so the door won't swing shut
Check this first

Raise the front leveling legs slightly so the door swings closed by itself, then redo the dollar-bill test. A new gasket is a cheap part.

General guidance from the faults our technicians see most. The actual cause is confirmed on site before you pay for anything.

Step 2: pick the symptom 4 common washing machine faults

What our techs usually find Try this yourself first

Washer: Not draining at the end of the cycle

  • Drain pump blocked by a sock, an underwire or coins
  • Drain hose kinked behind the machine
  • Drain pump motor failed
  • Lid switch or door lock not registering, so it won't pump out
Check this first

Make sure the drain hose isn't kinked. Most front-loaders have a small filter door at the bottom front. Put down towels and a shallow pan before you open it.

General guidance from the faults our technicians see most. The actual cause is confirmed on site before you pay for anything.

What our techs usually find Try this yourself first

Washer: Not spinning, leaving clothes soaked

  • Load bunched to one side, so it refuses to spin
  • Lid switch or door lock failed
  • Worn drive belt or motor coupler
  • Water not draining. It won't spin a full tub
Check this first

Spread the load out and run a drain-and-spin cycle on its own. If it drains but still won't spin, it's a part, not the load.

General guidance from the faults our technicians see most. The actual cause is confirmed on site before you pay for anything.

What our techs usually find Stop using it until it is looked at

Washer: Leaking onto the floor

  • Torn door boot seal on a front-loader
  • Loose or cracked fill hose at the back
  • Drain pump seal leaking
  • Too much or non-HE detergent oversudsing
Check this first

Shut off the two supply valves behind it until it's fixed. Check the fill hoses at the valves and wipe out the fold of the door boot (the rubber seal around the door), where tears hide.

General guidance from the faults our technicians see most. The actual cause is confirmed on site before you pay for anything.

What our techs usually find Try this yourself first

Washer: Not filling, or filling slowly

  • Screens where the water comes in clogged with scale. Common with Arizona water
  • Water fill valve failed
  • Supply valves only partly open
  • Fill hose kinked
Check this first

Turn off the water, unscrew the hoses at the back and clean the small screens where the hoses connect. Arizona scale clogs them faster than most places.

General guidance from the faults our technicians see most. The actual cause is confirmed on site before you pay for anything.

Step 2: pick the symptom 4 common dryer faults

What our techs usually find Worth a visit

Dryer: Tumbling but not heating

  • Thermal fuse blown, almost always because the vent is restricted
  • Heating element open on an electric dryer
  • Igniter or gas valve coils on a gas dryer
  • One leg of the 240V breaker tripped on an electric dryer
Check this first

Check both halves of the dryer breaker, then go outside with it running. The vent should blow hard. If it barely breathes, clean the vent before replacing anything.

General guidance from the faults our technicians see most. The actual cause is confirmed on site before you pay for anything.

What our techs usually find Try this yourself first

Dryer: Taking two or three cycles to dry a load

  • Vent duct clogged with lint or crushed behind the dryer
  • Lint screen coated with dryer-sheet film
  • Outside vent flap stuck shut
  • Heating element or cycling thermostat getting weak
Check this first

Pull the duct off the back and run a load without it. If it dries, the vent is your problem. A clogged vent is a fire risk, so clean it before the next load.

General guidance from the faults our technicians see most. The actual cause is confirmed on site before you pay for anything.

What our techs usually find Worth a visit

Dryer: Not tumbling at all

  • Drive belt broken
  • Door switch failed
  • Idler pulley or drum rollers seized
  • Motor failed, or a thermal fuse that also cuts the motor
Check this first

Unplug it and turn the drum by hand. If it spins freely with no resistance at all, the belt has broken.

General guidance from the faults our technicians see most. The actual cause is confirmed on site before you pay for anything.

What our techs usually find Try this yourself first

Dryer: Shutting off partway through

  • Restricted vent tripping the thermal cutoff
  • Motor overheating and resetting
  • Dirty moisture sensor ending auto-dry early
Check this first

Wipe the two metal sensor bars inside the drum with rubbing alcohol. Film from dryer sheets fools them. Then check the vent as above.

General guidance from the faults our technicians see most. The actual cause is confirmed on site before you pay for anything.

Step 2: pick the symptom 4 common dishwasher faults

What our techs usually find Try this yourself first

Dishwasher: Standing water left in the bottom

  • Filter under the lower spray arm clogged
  • Drain hose kinked, or the air gap blocked
  • Garbage disposal full, or its knockout plug never removed
  • Drain pump failed
Check this first

Twist out and rinse the filter under the lower spray arm, then run the disposal. If the disposal is new, the knockout plug may still be in it.

General guidance from the faults our technicians see most. The actual cause is confirmed on site before you pay for anything.

What our techs usually find Try this yourself first

Dishwasher: Dishes coming out dirty or gritty

  • Filter clogged
  • Spray arm holes blocked with scale
  • No rinse aid. Arizona water leaves a film without it
  • Wash motor weak or low water fill
Check this first

Pull the spray arms and clear each hole with a toothpick, clean the filter, and keep the rinse aid topped up. That fixes most gritty loads here.

General guidance from the faults our technicians see most. The actual cause is confirmed on site before you pay for anything.

What our techs usually find Worth a visit

Dishwasher: Leaking from the door

  • Door gasket worn or pinched
  • Hand dish soap used instead of dishwasher detergent
  • Unit not level, so water runs to the door
  • Cracked spray arm spraying straight at the door
Check this first

Never put hand dish soap in it. The suds push out the door. Check the gasket for a tear and make sure the unit sits level.

General guidance from the faults our technicians see most. The actual cause is confirmed on site before you pay for anything.

What our techs usually find Worth a visit

Dishwasher: Not starting or not filling

  • Door latch switch not closing the circuit
  • Water fill valve failed or scaled up
  • Supply valve under the sink turned off
  • Child lock on, or a control board fault
Check this first

Make sure the control lock is off and the valve under the sink is all the way open. After that it's the latch switch or the fill valve.

General guidance from the faults our technicians see most. The actual cause is confirmed on site before you pay for anything.

Step 2: pick the symptom 4 common oven faults

What our techs usually find Worth a visit

Oven: Not heating at all

  • Bake element burned out. Look for a blister or a break
  • Weak gas igniter: it glows but never opens the valve
  • Thermal fuse blown
  • Relay on the control board failed
Check this first

Look at the bake element on the oven floor for a blister or break. On gas, if the igniter glows for over 90 seconds with no flame, the igniter is weak.

General guidance from the faults our technicians see most. The actual cause is confirmed on site before you pay for anything.

What our techs usually find Try this yourself first

Oven: Baking unevenly or burning on one side

  • Temperature sensor drifting and reading wrong
  • One element failed, so it bakes from the broiler only
  • Convection fan motor stopped
  • Foil on the floor or a rack blocking airflow
Check this first

Take any foil off the oven floor, then put an oven thermometer on the middle rack at 350F for 20 minutes and compare.

General guidance from the faults our technicians see most. The actual cause is confirmed on site before you pay for anything.

What our techs usually find Try this yourself first

Oven: Running hotter or cooler than the setting

  • Temperature sensor failed
  • Temperature adjustment setting drifted
  • Door seal letting heat out
Check this first

Check it with an oven thermometer. Most ovens let you adjust the setting by up to 35 degrees in the menu. Try that before replacing anything.

General guidance from the faults our technicians see most. The actual cause is confirmed on site before you pay for anything.

What our techs usually find Worth a visit

Oven: A door that no longer seals

  • Door gasket torn or flattened
  • Hinges worn or bent
  • Door knocked out of alignment
Check this first

Look for a gap or a torn gasket with the oven off and cool. Don't lean on an open oven door. That's how most hinges bend.

General guidance from the faults our technicians see most. The actual cause is confirmed on site before you pay for anything.

Step 2: pick the symptom 4 common stove faults

What our techs usually find Try this yourself first

Stove: A burner that will not light

  • Igniter port clogged with food
  • Burner cap not seated flat
  • Igniter wet after cleaning
  • Spark module failed
Check this first

Seat the cap flat, let it dry fully, and clear the port with a pin. If you smell gas at any point, stop, turn it off, and call the gas utility first.

General guidance from the faults our technicians see most. The actual cause is confirmed on site before you pay for anything.

What our techs usually find Try this yourself first

Stove: An element that stays cold

  • Coil element burned out
  • Element receptacle burned
  • Infinite switch behind the knob failed
  • Limiter on a glass-top radiant element
Check this first

On a coil top, swap it with a same-size element that works. If the swapped one heats, you need an element, not a switch.

General guidance from the faults our technicians see most. The actual cause is confirmed on site before you pay for anything.

What our techs usually find Worth a visit

Stove: A weak or uneven flame

  • Burner ports clogged
  • Cap sitting crooked
  • Regulator problem
  • Wrong orifice for the gas type after a conversion
Check this first

Clean the ports and reseat the cap. A yellow flame or a gas smell means stop and call the gas utility. Don't keep using it.

General guidance from the faults our technicians see most. The actual cause is confirmed on site before you pay for anything.

What our techs usually find Try this yourself first

Stove: Clicking that will not stop

  • Moisture in the igniter or switch after a spill
  • Spark switch shorted
  • Cap off-center so the flame is never sensed
Check this first

Wipe it dry and leave it off for 24 hours. If it still clicks once it's dry, it's the switch.

General guidance from the faults our technicians see most. The actual cause is confirmed on site before you pay for anything.

Step 2: pick the symptom 4 common microwave faults

What our techs usually find Worth a visit

Microwave: Running but not heating

  • Magnetron failed
  • High-voltage diode failed
  • High-voltage capacitor failed
  • A door interlock switch only partly working
Check this first

Don't open the case. The high-voltage capacitor holds a dangerous charge even unplugged. This one isn't a home repair.

General guidance from the faults our technicians see most. The actual cause is confirmed on site before you pay for anything.

What our techs usually find Try this yourself first

Microwave: A turntable that will not turn

  • Plate not seated on the coupler
  • Roller ring dirty or cracked
  • Coupler cracked
  • Turntable motor failed
Check this first

Lift the plate, clean the roller ring and the track, and seat the plate back on the coupler until it drops into place.

General guidance from the faults our technicians see most. The actual cause is confirmed on site before you pay for anything.

What our techs usually find Stop using it until it is looked at

Microwave: Shutting off as soon as the door closes

  • Door interlock switch failed
  • Blown fuse, usually caused by a failing switch
  • Thermal cutoff tripped
Check this first

Stop using it. The door interlocks are the safety switches that keep the microwaves inside, and they're not something to work around.

General guidance from the faults our technicians see most. The actual cause is confirmed on site before you pay for anything.

What our techs usually find Stop using it until it is looked at

Microwave: Sparking or arcing inside

  • Metal inside, like a twist tie, foil or a plate with metallic trim
  • Waveguide cover soaked with grease or burned
  • Chipped paint exposing metal in the cavity
Check this first

Take out anything metal and wipe splatter off the small panel on the inside wall. If that panel is scorched, stop using it until it's replaced.

General guidance from the faults our technicians see most. The actual cause is confirmed on site before you pay for anything.

Step 2: pick the symptom 4 common ice maker faults

What our techs usually find Try this yourself first

Ice Maker: Not producing ice

  • Water filter overdue and restricting flow
  • Water fill valve scaled up
  • Ice maker module failed
  • Freezer too warm to make ice
Check this first

Replace the water filter if it's past due. It's the cheapest fix and the most common one here. Make sure the freezer is near 0F.

General guidance from the faults our technicians see most. The actual cause is confirmed on site before you pay for anything.

What our techs usually find Try this yourself first

Ice Maker: Small, hollow or cloudy cubes

  • Clogged filter cutting water pressure
  • Water fill valve partly blocked with scale
  • Minerals in hard water clouding the ice
Check this first

New filter first. Small hollow cubes usually mean the mold isn't filling, and low water flow is the reason nine times out of ten.

General guidance from the faults our technicians see most. The actual cause is confirmed on site before you pay for anything.

What our techs usually find Try this yourself first

Ice Maker: Freezing into one solid block

  • Ice sitting unused so the cubes fuse
  • Freezer temperature swinging through defrost cycles
  • Water fill valve dripping into the bin
Check this first

Empty the bin, break up the block, and use the dispenser at least weekly. If it refreezes solid within days, the valve is dripping.

General guidance from the faults our technicians see most. The actual cause is confirmed on site before you pay for anything.

What our techs usually find Worth a visit

Ice Maker: Leaking or overfilling

  • Water fill valve not shutting all the way, often from scale
  • Ice maker not level
  • Fill tube frozen, so water spills instead
Check this first

Make sure the freezer is level front to back. A valve that won't close all the way needs replacing before it floods the freezer.

General guidance from the faults our technicians see most. The actual cause is confirmed on site before you pay for anything.

Step 2: pick the symptom 4 common garbage disposal faults

What our techs usually find Try this yourself first

Garbage Disposal: Humming without turning

  • Something wedged between the plate and the grind ring
  • Flywheel seized from buildup
  • Motor seized
Check this first

Switch it off at the wall. Put a quarter-inch hex key in the socket underneath and work it back and forth, then press the red reset button. Never put a hand inside.

General guidance from the faults our technicians see most. The actual cause is confirmed on site before you pay for anything.

What our techs usually find Worth a visit

Garbage Disposal: Leaking under the sink

  • Sink flange putty failed. Leak at the top
  • Dishwasher hose clamp loose. Leak at the side
  • Drain pipe gasket. Leak where the drain pipe connects
  • Cracked housing. Leak from the bottom, and that means replacement
Check this first

Put a few drops of food coloring in the sink with a dry towel underneath. Where the color shows up tells you which of those four it is.

General guidance from the faults our technicians see most. The actual cause is confirmed on site before you pay for anything.

What our techs usually find Worth a visit

Garbage Disposal: Jammed and will not reset

  • Jam not fully cleared
  • Motor overheating and tripping its overload
  • Motor failed
Check this first

Clear it with the hex key, wait 15 minutes for the overload to cool, then press reset. If it won't hold after that, the motor is going.

General guidance from the faults our technicians see most. The actual cause is confirmed on site before you pay for anything.

What our techs usually find Try this yourself first

Garbage Disposal: No response when switched on

  • Reset button tripped
  • Breaker or GFCI outlet tripped
  • Wall switch or wiring
  • Motor dead
Check this first

Press the red reset button on the bottom, then check the breaker and any GFCI outlet under the sink.

General guidance from the faults our technicians see most. The actual cause is confirmed on site before you pay for anything.

Step 2: pick the symptom 4 common trash compactor faults

What our techs usually find Worth a visit

Trash Compactor: Not compacting

  • Drive belt or chain broken
  • Drawer safety switch not closing
  • Directional switch failed
  • Motor failed
Check this first

Make sure the drawer is fully closed and latched and the key switch is on. Those two stop more compactors than any failed part.

General guidance from the faults our technicians see most. The actual cause is confirmed on site before you pay for anything.

What our techs usually find Try this yourself first

Trash Compactor: A ram stuck partway

  • A can or bottle wedged beside the ram
  • Power screws or chain binding
  • Directional switch failed
Check this first

Unplug it and look down both sides of the ram for something jammed sideways.

General guidance from the faults our technicians see most. The actual cause is confirmed on site before you pay for anything.

What our techs usually find Try this yourself first

Trash Compactor: A drawer or latch that will not close

  • Bag overfilled
  • Drawer rollers or track bent
  • Latch worn
Check this first

Take some out of the bag and check the track for anything caught in it before blaming the latch.

General guidance from the faults our technicians see most. The actual cause is confirmed on site before you pay for anything.

What our techs usually find Try this yourself first

Trash Compactor: Odor from a failed seal

  • Charcoal filter used up
  • Bag leaking into the drawer
  • Drawer seal worn
Check this first

Replace the charcoal filter and clean the drawer. If it still smells a week later, the seal is next.

General guidance from the faults our technicians see most. The actual cause is confirmed on site before you pay for anything.

Step 2: pick the symptom 4 common wine cooler faults

What our techs usually find Worth a visit

Wine Cooler: Not holding temperature

  • Front grille or condenser clogged, so it can't get rid of heat
  • Fan motor stopped
  • Thermostat or control board failed
  • Thermoelectric module past its limit in a hot room
Check this first

Clear the bottom grille, then leave a thermometer in a glass of water on a middle shelf overnight. The display is often wrong.

General guidance from the faults our technicians see most. The actual cause is confirmed on site before you pay for anything.

What our techs usually find Worth a visit

Wine Cooler: One zone warm while the other stays cold

  • Fan for that zone failed
  • Zone sensor failed
  • Damper stuck
  • Bottles blocking the vents inside
Check this first

Move bottles away from the vents at the back of the warm zone and give it a day. If it stays warm, it's the fan or the sensor.

General guidance from the faults our technicians see most. The actual cause is confirmed on site before you pay for anything.

What our techs usually find Worth a visit

Wine Cooler: Running constantly, or cycling on and off

  • Condenser clogged with dust
  • Glass door out of line and not sealing
  • Room too hot for the unit
  • Start relay failing, so the compressor clicks on and off every few minutes
Check this first

Do the dollar-bill test around the glass door. A door that's out of line can't hold the steady temperature you bought the unit for.

General guidance from the faults our technicians see most. The actual cause is confirmed on site before you pay for anything.

What our techs usually find Try this yourself first

Wine Cooler: Frost or ice building up on the back wall

  • Door seal letting humid air in
  • Defrost drain hole blocked
  • Door opened often in a warm room
Check this first

Check the seal, then clear the small drain hole at the back wall with a pipe cleaner.

General guidance from the faults our technicians see most. The actual cause is confirmed on site before you pay for anything.

What we repair

12 residential appliances. Each has its own page with what usually fails on that machine here, and the check worth doing before you pay anyone to come out.

All 12 services →
  • Kitchen Flat-rate

    Refrigerator Repair

    Most no-cool calls aren't a dead compressor.

    • Not cooling, or cooling unevenly
    • Leaking water underneath
    • The ice maker has stopped producing
  • Kitchen Flat-rate

    Freezer Repair

    Frost building up in a freezer is almost always the defrost system, usually the heater or the bimetal thermostat (a small heat switch clipped to the cooling coils).

    • Not holding temperature
    • Heavy frost or ice buildup
    • Running constantly
  • Laundry Flat-rate

    Washer Repair

    A washer that won't drain is a drain pump nine times out of ten, and what's in the pump is usually a sock, an underwire, or a handful of change.

    • Not draining at the end of the cycle
    • Not spinning, leaving clothes soaked
    • Leaking onto the floor
  • Laundry Flat-rate

    Dryer Repair

    Tumbling but not heating is the thermal fuse or the heating element, and a thermal fuse almost never blows without a reason.

    • Tumbling but not heating
    • Taking two or three cycles to dry a load
    • Not tumbling at all
  • Kitchen Flat-rate

    Dishwasher Repair

    Gritty dishes are usually the filter or the spray arm, not the pump.

    • Standing water left in the bottom
    • Dishes coming out dirty or gritty
    • Leaking from the door
  • Kitchen Flat-rate

    Oven Repair

    No heat on an electric oven is the bake element most of the time, and you can usually see the damage: a blister or a break in the coil.

    • Not heating at all
    • Baking unevenly or burning on one side
    • Running hotter or cooler than the setting
Why homeowners choose us

Our commitment

The part most people care about is the price, so we quote it before anyone touches the machine.

  • Flat-rate pricing

    You only pay the quoted flat-rate price, no matter how long the repair takes.

  • No surprises

    Before our technicians start any work, they explain exactly what they are going to do. You will never encounter surprise fees.

  • No hidden charges

    What we quote is the final price. No additional or hidden charges that you were not anticipating.

  • Reasonable rates

    Not only do we strive to provide fast and reliable service, we do it at a fair, competitive price.

  • Prompt service

    Our technicians are efficient. We quickly diagnose your appliance's problem.

  • Convenient appointments

    Our technicians are available on your schedule. Call ahead to book a time that works for you.

10% off 10% off for first-time customers, veterans and first responders Mention this offer when you schedule and we will apply the discount.
Interactive repair-or-replace guide

Should I repair or replace my appliance?

Change anything and the answer updates. The service lives and prices behind it are what we see across 17 years of Arizona repair work.

2. What kind?
6. Overall condition
7. Repaired before?
Our recommendation
Repair it

    General guidance from what we see across 17 years of Arizona repair work, not figures from an industry table. Your machine isn't an average, so we show you every number the answer is based on.

    Transparent & up front

    Our 6-step appliance repair process

    Same way on every job, whether it's a dryer in Casa Grande or a built-in in Scottsdale.

    1. Call and book a time

      Call the line for your county and pick a time that works for you. (520) 788-4004 for Pinal, (480) 791-8858 for Maricopa.

    2. A technician comes to you

      A technician comes out to your home, same-day where the schedule allows.

    3. We find the actual fault

      The technician diagnoses the problem quickly, on the machine, rather than guessing from the symptom.

    4. You hear the plan first

      Before any work starts, they explain exactly what they are going to do - including when it is not worth fixing.

    5. A flat-rate price, up front

      You get one price before the work begins, and it does not change however long the repair takes.

    6. You pay the price you were quoted

      What we quote is the final price. No additional charges you were not expecting.

    Start with step 1: call (480) 791-8858

    Appliance repair in Pinal and Maricopa County

    Two offices, 20 towns across both counties. Every town has its own page with the areas we cover and the number to call.

    All service areas →

    Verified feedback from Arizona homeowners

    4.86★ from 804 reviews across both offices, live from Google and Facebook - not testimonials we picked.

    All major appliance brands we service

    The built-in and luxury brands too, not just standard household units.

    Explore all 18 brand guides →

    Common questions

    • How much do appliance repair technicians charge?

      Most shops charge $50 to $100 to come out and find the problem, then quote the repair on top. A normal job lands somewhere between $150 and $600 once parts and labor are in. We work flat rate, so you get the price before anything comes apart, and it doesn't creep up if the job takes longer than we thought.

    • Is it cheaper to repair or replace an appliance?

      It comes down to age and what the fix costs. Refrigerators go 9 to 13 years, washers 10 to 14, dryers 10 to 13, dishwashers about 9. A young machine with one dead part is worth fixing nearly every time. An old one facing a big repair usually isn't, and we'll tell you so even when it costs us the job.

    • What is the 50/50 rule for appliances?

      It's a quick way to decide. If the appliance is more than halfway through its expected life AND the repair runs more than half the price of a new one, replace it. If only one of those is true, fix it. It's a rule of thumb, not gospel. A cheap part on an old machine can still be money well spent.

    • Which refrigerator brand do repair technicians recommend?

      The ones we can get parts for. Whirlpool, GE, Maytag, KitchenAid and Bosch are easy to work on, and the parts sit on a shelf. Samsung and LG build a good-looking refrigerator, but a lot of their parts are brand-only, and you can be waiting a week or more. If getting back up and running fast matters to you, that's worth more than the feature list on the door.

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